Big Bend
Big Bend is the far end of Texas, and that is the point. Distance is the price of admission, and what you get is a river canyon, a mountain range rising out of the desert and a night sky that makes you quiet.
What it is
Big Bend National Park sits where the Rio Grande forms the park’s southern boundary and carves canyons including Santa Elena. The Chisos Mountains rise as what the National Park Service calls a “solitary mountain range” surrounded by desert. Elevation runs from under 1,800 feet along the river to nearly 8,000 feet in the mountains.
The park lists more than 450 bird species and more than 150 miles of hiking trails.
The sky
Big Bend was designated a Gold Tier International Dark Sky Park on February 6, 2012. At the time it was the largest such park, with over 801,000 acres. Measurements by the NPS Night Sky Team found the region has “the darkest measured skies in the lower 48 states.” Clear nights here are something to plan a trip around.
The other Big Bend
Big Bend Ranch State Park is a separate place, and TPWD calls it the biggest state park in Texas. It has two entrances: the Barton Warnock Visitor Center near Lajitas on the east, and Fort Leaton near Presidio on the west. TPWD also lists it as an International Dark Sky Park. The interior is reached by a 27-mile dirt road from FM 170 to Sauceda, and about 70 miles of unmaintained roads need a 4WD vehicle with plenty of ground clearance. Motor homes and trailers are not recommended. Permits are needed for backpacking, camping and river use, and reservations are strongly recommended.
Getting there
Per the NPS directions page, from Study Butte (reached by TX 118 from Alpine or FM 170 from Presidio) it is 26 miles east to park headquarters. From Marathon, via US 90 or US 385, it is 70 miles south. Nothing is close. From Houston, Austin or San Antonio, expect a full day’s drive, and check a current map for the route that suits you. The park service warns that GPS is not always reliable here, so carry a paper map.
When to go
The busy season runs roughly November through April, heaviest from mid-January to mid-April. Summers are hot, and TPWD notes summer temperatures at Big Bend Ranch often pass 100F by late morning. Advance reservations are required for camping and lodging at the national park.
Good to know
Cell service is very spotty. There is free WiFi at visitor centers, Chisos Mountains Lodge and the Rio Grande Village Store. A passport is required if you plan to enter Mexico. For fees, hours, permits and road conditions, go to the official sites: nps.gov/bibe and TPWD’s Big Bend Ranch page.
One practical tip
Book your lodging or campsite before you book anything else, and carry far more water than you think you need. Give it more days than you think, too.
Keep exploring
Stay in the area at Terlingua, the old mining town just outside the park. Or head north to Marfa for art and open grassland.